Pear Brilliant Cut Diamonds are a combination of a round brilliant cut and a marquise brilliant cut, with a tapered point on one end. The diamond is always worn with the narrow end pointing toward the hand of the wearer. Like marquise and oval cuts, the pear shaped diamond comes in a variety of slim to wide cuts, and has the added benefit of making the wearer’s fingers appear longer and slimmer. Ideally, a pear shaped diamond should possess excellent or very good symmetry. The point should line up with the apex of the rounded end. The shoulders and wings (the upper and lower curves on the right and left side of the diamond) should form uniform, symmetrical curves, with no straight edges. The rounded top should not appear narrow or squat, but like a semi-circle. In a misguided effort to add weight to a diamond (by incorporating more of the rough stone in the final cut) cutters may give the diamond added girth near the point or top, giving the diamond a squared off appearance.
A pear diamond should always be set with a prong at the point – the most likely location for chipping on a pear cut diamond. Because this point was once nearest the outer edge of the rough stone, flaws such as naturals, extra facets, and other inclusions may be located here. Since the point is covered by a prong, these flaws will be invisible once the diamond is set. The only remaining concern would be if the flaws are significant enough to affect the stability of the diamond (this is extremely rare, however).
Evaluating color in pear diamonds is subjective. Many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with pear shaped diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive.
Evaluating Color: In larger pear diamonds (over 1 carat), the color may appear slightly darker at the point. For this reason, buyers may choose to move up one color grade as compared to other diamond shapes. The color chart below provides a general guide for evaluating color in pear shaped diamonds.
Evaluating Clarity: Like color, evaluating clarity in pear diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance.
Setting a Pear Brilliant Cut: The absolute best setting for a pear cut diamond ring is a 6 prong setting: two prongs on each side of the pear’s lobe and a top bottom prong. The lower prong should completely protect the delicate and vulnerable ‘V’ on the pointed end of the pear. If the point is left exposed on a pear shaped diamond ring or a pear gemstone ring, the stone can catch on hair and clothes and has increased risks for chipping.